Shroomin'

This time of year marks the arrival of when a walk in the woods can provide the reward of some tasty edibles on your table. Particularly members of the Boletus family (also known as porcini or ceps) and my summertime favorite, the chanterelle. You may also stumble upon an oyster mushroom or two.

While mushroom identification should be done with caution, once you have successfully identified chanterelles (with the help of someone who knows what they are doing!) and boletes you should be on your way to harvesting some with piece of mind year after year.

The great thing about chanterelles is that they can be prolific, have in my opinion the best flavor and texture of any wild mushroom found around here, and are pretty bug and pest resistant. The scary thing about chanterelles, is that there are some look-alikes that can leave you in severe pain, and hugging the toilet for days to come. The most common impostors are the scaly vase chanterelle and the Jack O’Lantern mushrooms. Proceed with caution my friends.

Boletes are pretty friendly once you are able to identify the species, as none of them can do really any serious harm besides a upset stomach. Also, the “bad” ones have the tell tale sign of instantly staining blue when cut. Besides that, the most unpleasant aspect of non choice boletes is a bitter taste. These mushrooms are what are called Mycorrhizal, meaning that they have a symbiotic relationship with the roots of certain trees. A mushroom is actually the only reproductive part of the organism, the “fruit” if you will, kind of like a apple is the only reproductive part of an apple tree. The main part of the mushroom is actually underground mingling with the roots of a certain tree or running through dead wood and consists of a web of fibers called mycelium. So when you find a “King” or “Two Colored” bolete (two absolutely delicious varieties found in The Valley’s woods), note the type of tree it is growing under, as this is a good sign of where more will be discovered.

While my legal council advises against telling you how to identify mushrooms that wont kill you, I will suggest these two resources to get you on your way:

Edible Wild Mushrooms of North America. A Field-To-Kitchen Guide. By David W. Fischer and Alan E. Bessette. University of Texas Press.

www.wildgourmetfood.com The Northeast Kingdom’s own Les Hook and Nova Kim are world renowned hunters of wild food and medicines. Their web site contains various links as well as a schedule of workshops that help participants become familiar with wild edibles.

How do I cook these things you ask? First of all, never wash a mushroom. They are like sponges, and will absorb all that water making it counter productive to the cooking process which is meant to remove moisture... creating a golden brown and delicious caramelization to add texture and flavor depth to what you put on the plate. Soggy mushrooms are not good eats in my book. I keep some soft bristled tooth brushes in my kitchen drawer for the cleaning process, and simply cut away any discolored or bug visited areas.

You also want to use high heat. Get your pan nice and hot before adding the oil and mushrooms, season them with some salt and pepper, and move them around while cooking with a wooden spoon. Mushrooms also love acid. Finish them with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, a splash of white wine or good quality sherry vinegar and the depth of flavor is multiplied. Remove from heat, add a pat of butter and some fresh herbs, and your good to go. You can also wilt in some spicy greens such a mizuna or arugula and some garlic scapes for a oh so tasty side dish. Or, as I am making for my guests tonight, combine one part Gaylord Farm burger with the Weber and a bit of apple-wood. Top with that saute I just described (greens fresh or wilted in), some nice Jasper Hill Blue cheese, Dave’s tomatoes, toasted Red Hen bread...and you will be grilling with the best the season has to offer!

Happy hunting out there, and if you can’t find any chanterelles in the woods....check out Dave Hartshorn’s market stand!